{"id":8115,"date":"2016-04-18T08:30:09","date_gmt":"2016-04-18T13:30:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/freshcup.com\/?p=8115"},"modified":"2022-08-17T23:06:07","modified_gmt":"2022-08-18T04:06:07","slug":"the-paris-coffee-revolution","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/freshcup.com\/the-paris-coffee-revolution\/","title":{"rendered":"The Paris Coffee Revolution"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[C]offee has long been part of the French identity. Some of history\u2019s most well known French figures were coffee lovers. Honor\u00e9 de Balzac drank the equivalent of fifty cups a day (although he consumed it in straight coffee grounds). Voltaire\u2014who was said to drink upwards of forty cups of coffee a day\u2014purportedly responded to his physician\u2019s comment that coffee was slowly poisoning him by saying, \u201cYes, it must be a slow poison, it has been poisoning me for over seventy years!\u201d<\/p>\n<p>With its first caf\u00e9, le Procope, dating back to 1686, caf\u00e9 culture has been intrinsically linked to Parisian culture for centuries. After all, what would a trip to Paris be without a lazy morning spent on a caf\u00e9 terrace nursing a caf\u00e9 au lait and watching Parisian street life unfold in front of you?<\/p>\n<p>But while Paris had a robust caf\u00e9 culture, until recently the city did not have a coffee culture, at least not one focused on the quality of what was in the cup. Shots were harsh, bitter, and over-extracted, made of coffee sourced from French industrial coffee giants. In a culture known for painstakingly focusing on the food served on a plate and the wine poured into a glass, how could the quality of the coffee be so bad?<\/p>\n<p><iframe src=\"https:\/\/player.vimeo.com\/video\/162802574\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>Until the last few years, Paris\u2019 coffee reputation was dismal at best. If you were willing to let ambience take precedent over taste, there was plenty of coffee to be consumed, all while sitting on the iconic wicker chairs Parisian caf\u00e9s are known for. But if you wanted a cup with quality, you were hard-pressed to find one.<\/p>\n<p>Fortunately for coffee lovers, over the last few years, this has all come to change. Today Paris leads the way in the French specialty coffee scene, influencing other cities around France, and around the rest of Europe.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_8143\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-8143\" style=\"width: 1014px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-8143 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Obladi_Menu_Brewers.jpg\" alt=\"Obladi_Menu_Brewers\" width=\"1014\" height=\"576\" srcset=\"https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Obladi_Menu_Brewers.jpg 1014w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Obladi_Menu_Brewers-500x284.jpg 500w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Obladi_Menu_Brewers-768x436.jpg 768w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Obladi_Menu_Brewers-400x227.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-8143\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A California-inspired menu at Ob-La-Di. (Photos: Jessica Copi.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_8137\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-8137\" style=\"width: 1014px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-8137 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/HolyBelly_Exterior.jpg\" alt=\"HolyBelly_Exterior\" width=\"1014\" height=\"576\" srcset=\"https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/HolyBelly_Exterior.jpg 1014w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/HolyBelly_Exterior-500x284.jpg 500w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/HolyBelly_Exterior-768x436.jpg 768w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/HolyBelly_Exterior-400x227.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-8137\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crowd gathers outside Hollybelly.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>[T]ravel back only a handful of years, and the coffee scene looked desolate, even if it wasn\u2019t empty. Before the specialty scene was born, you \u201ccould find an independent roaster in every Parisian district, so it has always been easy to find freshly roasted coffee beans outside of supermarkets,\u201d says Emmanuel Buschiazzo, the founder of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/reseaubaristasfrance\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">R\u00e9seau des Baristas de France<\/a>. \u201cHowever, without any doubt, there was a tendency, even a will, to\u00a0over-roast what was most generally lower- or mid-range coffee beans. In fact, there was virtually no place in Paris for high-grade, single-origin coffee served by a professional barista until <a href=\"http:\/\/www.lacafeotheque.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">la Caf\u00e9oth\u00e8que<\/a> opened its doors in 2005.\u201d La Caf\u00e9oth\u00e8que helped to kick-start the Parisian coffee revolution both with a caf\u00e9 and roastery, though for several years it was the only specialty operation around.<\/p>\n<p>In 2009 came roaster <a href=\"https:\/\/www.larbreacafe.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">l\u2019Arbre \u00e0 Caf\u00e9<\/a>, followed in 2010 by <a href=\"http:\/\/www.cafelomi.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Caf\u00e9 Lomi<\/a> and <a href=\"http:\/\/www.coutumecafe.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Coutume<\/a>. That same year one of the first Anglophone-inspired coffee shops opened, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/CafeShopSouthPigalle\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">KB Caf\u00e9shop<\/a>, situated at the footsteps of Montmartre. Two years later, in 2012, two more big players came to the specialty caf\u00e9 scene: <a href=\"http:\/\/www.telescopecafe.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">T\u00e9lescope<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/TenBelles\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Ten Belles<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><iframe src=\"https:\/\/player.vimeo.com\/video\/161187801\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>Looking back, it\u2019s easy to pinpoint 2013 as the year when things started changing in a big way. It was the year that some of the leaders of the Paris specialty coffee scene launched, with the likes of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.cafeloustic.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Loustic<\/a>, <a href=\"http:\/\/holybel.ly\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Holybelly<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fondationcafe\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Fondation<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Fragments-Paris-515511241861260\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Fragments<\/a>, as well as the roastery <a href=\"http:\/\/cafesbelleville.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Belleville Br\u00fblerie-Paris<\/a> all opening their doors to welcome coffee lovers and to educate those who had yet to be bitten by the coffee bug. In the short amount of time since, Paris has grown into a burgeoning specialty coffee capital, one that was almost unimaginable only a decade ago. \u201cWe went from the beginnings to an explosion,\u201d says Antoine N\u00e9tien of Coutume. \u201cWe created a large group of aficionados who will not go back.\u201d As they won\u2019t go back to bad coffee, those customers will be on the lookout for more of the good stuff, which has been good for new coffee businesses. \u201cI don\u2019t think we have ever had as many openings,\u201d says N\u00e9tien of all the new coffee businesses that launched last year. While just a few years ago there were only a handful of specialty caf\u00e9s, today you have co-working caf\u00e9s, pop-up shops with specialty coffee bars, and food events where the coffee on hand is about more than an easy-to-make capsule.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-8125 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Coutume_Interior.jpg\" alt=\"Coutume_Interior\" width=\"1014\" height=\"576\" srcset=\"https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Coutume_Interior.jpg 1014w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Coutume_Interior-500x284.jpg 500w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Coutume_Interior-768x436.jpg 768w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Coutume_Interior-400x227.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>A busy day at Coutume.<\/p>\n<p>Newcomers to the scene can thank that explosion; today the prospects of opening a coffee business are very different from a few years ago. \u201cIt would be perhaps a little more acceptable to open a purely coffee-centric shop now,\u201d says Chris Nielson of Fondation, \u201cwhereas two or three years ago that kind of concept would have been too foreign.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>As more coffee-centric places have opened, they have encouraged customers to not only seek out businesses that focus on quality, but also bring that quality into their kitchens. \u201cYou see people who say, \u2018Yes, I have my Chemex,\u2019\u201d says N\u00e9tien of Coutume. \u201cYou didn\u2019t see that before.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8128\" src=\"http:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Craft_Exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Craft_Exterior\" width=\"1014\" height=\"576\" srcset=\"https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Craft_Exterior.jpg 1014w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Craft_Exterior-500x284.jpg 500w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Craft_Exterior-768x436.jpg 768w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Craft_Exterior-400x227.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>[W]hile it may have taken some time for specialty coffee culture to hit the Parisian streets, given the general French attitude towards good food and wine, there\u2019s a great potential for it to stay. \u201cI think what makes the Paris specialty coffee scene unique is really the culture of Paris and France\u00a0itself. Unlike in many other\u00a0places, food and\u00a0flavor have value in this culture, and always have. While the execution of food in France has certainly varied in quality over the decades, the idea that good food and\u00a0amazing flavors are something worth paying for never has,\u201d says David Nigel Flynn, who along with Thomas Lehoux, launched a series of barista events in 2010 called Frog Fight to generate interest in the coffee community, and later, would open the city\u2019s well-loved roastery, Belleville Br\u00fblerie-Paris. \u201cIt was always a matter of letting people know that coffee could be something other than burnt and gross; that it could be delicious. It was never a situation of defending the idea of good coffee as something that should be valuable.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>In other words, it wasn\u2019t that Paris wasn\u2019t interested in good coffee, it was that no one had ever served it before. Coffee was undrinkable simply because that was how Paris understood coffee to be. \u201cWe are reactivating the French palate,\u201d says N\u00e9tien. Paris\u2019 coffee entrepreneurs aren\u2019t just serving up good coffee, they are getting Parisians to rethink what coffee is, and what it can be, and eventually that\u2019s going to challenge the larger brands. \u201cWhen Parisians will fully understand what specialty coffee is, there will be a breach in the wall built by industrial brands,\u201d says Buschiazzo.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_8130\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-8130\" style=\"width: 662px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-8130 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/DavidNigelFlynn-e1461085471987.jpg\" alt=\"DavidNigelFlynn\" width=\"662\" height=\"707\" srcset=\"https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/DavidNigelFlynn-e1461085471987.jpg 662w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/DavidNigelFlynn-e1461085471987-468x500.jpg 468w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/DavidNigelFlynn-e1461085471987-400x427.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 662px) 100vw, 662px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-8130\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">David Nigel Flynn of Belleville Br\u00fblerie Paris.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8144\" src=\"http:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Obladi_MenuLatte.jpg\" alt=\"Obladi_MenuLatte\" width=\"1014\" height=\"576\" srcset=\"https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Obladi_MenuLatte.jpg 1014w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Obladi_MenuLatte-500x284.jpg 500w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Obladi_MenuLatte-768x436.jpg 768w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Obladi_MenuLatte-400x227.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The crack in barricade has already begun to widen, and quickly. \u201cWhen I moved to Paris in 2009, there was really no coffee of great quality, but there was a feeling that Paris was ready for something like this. There was a lot of activity in the restaurant and food scene and a lot of excitement about the renewal of eating here in Paris. You had to think that Paris\u00a0could\u00a0be a great coffee city,\u201d says Nigel Flynn. \u201cAfter Thomas and I started the Frog Fight, we got pretty excited about the potential of Paris as a coffee destination. I\u2019ve been convinced Paris would become a great coffee city ever since.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>And a great coffee city it is becoming. \u201cAll eyes are on Paris at the moment because there is a sense that the Parisian specialty coffee scene\u00a0(not to mention France as a whole)\u00a0will finally explode in the coming years; the expectation is high,\u201d says Buschiazzo.<\/p>\n<p>[W]hat will the next wave of Paris specialty coffee look like? One can hope that it will be a democratization of specialty coffee, that the institutions that have long defined Parisian caf\u00e9 culture will also come on board, ensuring not just a cultural experience with ambience, but ensuring the quality in the cup as well. \u201cThey don\u2019t have a choice,\u201d says N\u00e9tien, pointing out that as interest in specialty coffee grows, people will demand better coffee no matter where they are, and in turn, even the traditional caf\u00e9s will have to change their ways. If they do, Paris has the opportunity to have a truly unique specialty coffee culture, one that is more representative of the iconic caf\u00e9 culture that the city is known for.<\/p>\n<p>Parisian specialty coffee culture began by incorporating elements of specialty coffee from elsewhere\u2014most notably, Australia. Many of the city\u2019s caf\u00e9 owners, baristas, and roasters have a link to Australia, whether it\u2019s traveling, training, living, or actually coming from there. But what started as an outer influence has taken a more local, adapted form, which is exactly what Paris\u2019 coffee culture needs if it\u2019s going to continue to evolve, and survive. Outside trends come and go, but when a movement is embraced from the inside, it has lasting power. \u201cThe coffee shops that brought great coffee to Paris were often a different style of caf\u00e9 from the traditional Parisian caf\u00e9, more in the global\u00a0\u2018coffee shop\u2019 style,\u201d says Nigel Flynn. \u201cI think more and more, the Parisian caf\u00e9 ethos is going to seep into the scene.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>In fact, it\u2019s exactly that ethos that makes the Parisian scene special. \u201cThis is what makes the Paris specialty coffee scene unique today\u2014a melting pot of traditional French mentality mixed with an Anglo-Saxon flair, and a massive amount of people sitting at the table waiting\u00a0to see what will result from this brew,\u201d says Buschiazzo.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_8133\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-8133\" style=\"width: 1014px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-8133 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Fondation_Interior.jpg\" alt=\"Fondation_Interior\" width=\"1014\" height=\"576\" srcset=\"https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Fondation_Interior.jpg 1014w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Fondation_Interior-500x284.jpg 500w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Fondation_Interior-768x436.jpg 768w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/Fondation_Interior-400x227.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-8133\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fondation.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_8120\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-8120\" style=\"width: 657px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-8120 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/10BellesExterior-e1461085520468.jpg\" alt=\"10BellesExterior\" width=\"657\" height=\"646\" srcset=\"https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/10BellesExterior-e1461085520468.jpg 657w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/10BellesExterior-e1461085520468-500x492.jpg 500w, https:\/\/freshcup.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/10BellesExterior-e1461085520468-400x393.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 657px) 100vw, 657px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-8120\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ten Belles.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>What will that brew bring? Now that the groundwork has been laid, there\u2019s certainly an opportunity for new roasters. \u201cParis has too few specialty coffee roasters for a city of this size. The more roasters, the more messengers on the ground to diffuse the good word,\u201d says Buschiazzo. The next wave of Parisian coffee also has the chance to become more specialized; now that the bar has been set for the quality of the coffee itself, coffee entrepreneurs will have to focus on other elements of the business. N\u00e9tien sees the potential for baristas functioning more like sommeliers, not just focused on educating the customer about specialty coffee; but given that there\u2019s more and more awareness about coffee, also listening to what they like and want. \u201cDepending on your interest, [the sommelier] will give you information,\u201d says N\u00e9tien. If you don\u2019t know what kind of wine you want, a sommelier will help to guide you in your choice. \u201cWe have to do the same with coffee.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>A lot can happen in a decade, but the complete story of Parisian specialty coffee has yet to be written. The groundwork has been laid, and now we wait to see where the French capital\u2019s next steps lead us. Hopefully, to even better coffee.<\/p>\n<p>\u2014<em>Anna Brones is a freelance writer and founder of the website <a href=\"http:\/\/foodieunderground.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Foodie Underground<\/a>. She is also the author of <\/em><a href=\"http:\/\/www.penguinrandomhouse.com\/books\/228780\/fika-by-anna-brones-and-johanna-kindvall\/9781607745860\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Fika: The Art of the Swedish Coffee Break<\/a> <em>and<\/em> <a href=\"http:\/\/www.pariscoffeerevolution.fr\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Paris Coffee Revolution<\/a><em>.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Paris was a city of caf\u00e9s but not of coffee. That\u2019s changed, and it\u2019s changed fast.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":127,"featured_media":8122,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"limit_modified_date":"","last_modified_date":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}},"beyondwords_generate_audio":"","beyondwords_project_id":"","beyondwords_content_id":"","beyondwords_player_style":"","beyondwords_language_id":"","beyondwords_title_voice_id":"","beyondwords_body_voice_id":"","beyondwords_summary_voice_id":"","beyondwords_error_message":"","beyondwords_disabled":"","beyondwords_podcast_id":"","beyondwords_hash":"","publish_post_to_speechkit":"","speechkit_hash":"","speechkit_generate_audio":"","speechkit_project_id":"","speechkit_podcast_id":"","speechkit_error_message":"","speechkit_disabled":"","speechkit_access_key":"","speechkit_error":"","speechkit_info":"","speechkit_response":"","speechkit_retries":"","speechkit_updated_at":"","_speechkit_link":"","_speechkit_text":""},"categories":[14253],"tags":[684,732,314,719,469],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v20.12 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>The Paris Coffee Revolution - Fresh Cup Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/freshcup.com\/the-paris-coffee-revolution\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Paris Coffee Revolution - Fresh Cup Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Paris was a city of caf\u00e9s but not of coffee. 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