{"id":36845,"date":"2023-09-29T06:00:00","date_gmt":"2023-09-29T11:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/freshcup.com\/?p=36845"},"modified":"2023-09-28T23:07:14","modified_gmt":"2023-09-29T04:07:14","slug":"a-peek-into-denmarks-specialty-coffee-evolution","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/freshcup.com\/a-peek-into-denmarks-specialty-coffee-evolution\/","title":{"rendered":"A Peek Into Denmark’s Specialty Coffee Evolution"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Despite being a nation of just under six million people, Denmark consistently charts in the top five coffee-consuming countries<\/a> globally\u2014the average person drinks 19 pounds of coffee each year, or roughly 430 cups annually. Today, maybe one of those cups comes from roasters like Coffee Collective<\/a> or La Cabra<\/a>, two out of dozens of well-known coffee brands in the international specialty sphere, but specialty coffee wasn\u2019t part of Denmark\u2019s lauded<\/a> culinary scene until recently.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Coffee has been part of Danish culture for decades, driven by large coffee brands like Merrild and Peter Larsen Kaffe, which have long provided the foundation for the \u201ccoffee and cake\u201d breaks that are such a big part of Danish work life\u2014no celebration is complete without a thermos of coffee and pastries. Specialty coffee only entered Denmark\u2019s national consciousness in the mid-aughts. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cAt the time [I won the World Barista Championship in 2006], there were a few coffee shops around [in Copenhagen], but we thought it was underdeveloped compared to what we knew coffee could be,\u201d says Klaus Thomsen<\/a>, one of Coffee Collective\u2019s three co-founders. \u201cWe could see there was a big gaping hole in the market for the qualities of coffees that excited us.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The coffee scene in Denmark has flourished rapidly over the last two decades. People like Thomsen\u2014and many others\u2014have helped propel the nation’s drive for better coffee by establishing a distinctly Danish coffee identity, one that prioritizes collaboration (including between competitors) and celebrates local traditions. Now, the Nordic nation sits as one of the most well-known specialty coffee destinations in the world, a distinction built through embracing what makes the country unique.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Origin Stories<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u201cSince we started early in 2014, so many new roasters are popping up, especially in Copenhagen,\u201d says Sine Klejs Gren, founder of Holy Bean Coffee Roasters, located in Aarup, a small town on the island of Fyn. We\u2019re chatting on a bench outside of Caf\u00e9 S\u00f8lle in Odense, Fyn\u2019s largest city, on one of Denmark\u2019s rare sunny days.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u201cWe are actually the only one, if we can say so, focusing on specialty light roasts here on Fyn. There are other roasteries, but they focus on a darker roast for automatic espresso machines in offices,\u201d says Gren. \u201cWe are going for small caf\u00e9s, like Caf\u00e9 S\u00f8lle, because they want to do something different.\u201d Gren shares that Holy Bean provides wholesale services and coffee courses for businesses \u201cthat care about the values behind the coffee,\u201d including a Michelin-star restaurant.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It would be hard to imagine a roastery like Holy Bean, with a focus on light roasted coffees, operating in a town with just over 3,000 people, opening even just a few decades ago. When Thomsen got involved in the specialty coffee scene around 2003, \u201cthe Danish specialty scene was very, very small, almost non-existent. There were two Danish World Barista Champions at that time, but they were using [coffee roasted in Italy],\u201d he says with a laugh in an interview over Zoom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe started our roastery first in a little warehouse near the [Copenhagen] airport and just did wholesale and a webshop for half a year. And then we finally managed to open our own coffee shop, which was always the dream, in February 2008,\u201d Thomsen says. That caf\u00e9 would ultimately be the first of nine around the capital city, including a coffee bar inside a refurbished telephone booth<\/a> and a bakery that supplies all other locations. Today, Coffee Collective is a certified B Corp<\/a> that released its sixth annual transparency report<\/a> earlier this year,<\/a> outlining the company\u2019s sourcing and purchasing goals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Andreas Astrup, CEO and founder of ROAST Coffee<\/a>, came to coffee from the nonprofit sector. \u201cI had a dream about setting up a roastery in a producing country, maybe in Kenya. But then I got offered a job in Bangkok. Whenever I had a weekend off, I\u2019d go up north in Thailand or to Laos and Indonesia and bring back green beans to roast on my balcony,\u201d he says over Zoom. When Astrup returned to Copenhagen, he had a now-or-never moment and opened his roastery in 2015 in the neighborhood of Islands Brygge. Today, the roastery sits right around the corner from the original location.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

At the time [I won the World Barista Championship in 2006], there were a few coffee shops around, but we thought it was underdeveloped compared to what we knew coffee could be. We could see there was a big gaping hole in the market for the qualities of coffees that excited us.<\/p>\nKlaus Thomsen, Coffee Collective<\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

His original business plan was to have one space that doubled as a roastery and cafe to serve as a showroom for the coffee but to focus primarily on online sales and subscriptions. After taking a roasting course with instructor Willem Boot<\/a>, Astrup changed course. \u201cI very much learned by doing,\u201d he says. \u201cThe first year, I was both roasting and looking after the bar at the same time. It wasn\u2019t a great way to do it, but it was just a lot of fun.\u201d Now, there are three ROAST locations around Copenhagen, and Astrup is working on a new project called the \u201c50-50\u201d label<\/a> that aims to guarantee coffee producers 50% of the retail price of a bag of coffee.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

ROAST is one of a growing handful of roasteries attempting to shift the focus to sustainable coffee sourcing practices. \u201cComing from the nonprofit sector, one of the things I didn’t want to do with ROAST was start a new kind of feel-good charity,\u201d Astrup says. \u201cI wanted to do something sustainable, a more equal relationship, something that could grow and actually change things.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The \u201c50-50\u201d program accounts for 2% of ROAST\u2019s coffee as of August 2023, and six of the 16 coffees on its web shop currently bear the label\u2014but Astrup\u2019s goal is to purchase more coffees with this model. \u201cI think the market needs to change, but I’m optimistic. The customers need to be aware they need to pay a higher price, especially in exchange for better quality,\u201d Astrup says. \u201cIt’s definitely still a work in progress. But it\u2019s very close to my heart.\u201d
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A Growing Danish Coffee Scene<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

When I first moved to Denmark in 2020, I was thrilled to find that filter coffee was as ubiquitous here as in New York, where I grew up. Filter is also called almindelig kaffe <\/em>(\u201cordinary coffee\u201d), a phrase that a Merrild blog notes<\/a> \u201cis often connected with an old thermos and a boring taste\u201d (Danish-to-English translation mine). <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Almindelig kaffe<\/em> usually refers to conventional, non-specialty coffee, which is what most Danes are used to drinking. Specialty coffee is, however, increasingly on the menu\u2014and Thomsen thinks the proof is in the cup. \u201cWe’ve always resented when [people] say consumers can’t taste the difference,\u201d he says. \u201cAnd we’ve always been like, that’s bullshit. […] As baristas, we knew people could taste the difference even in a single latte. They would come in and say, \u2018It’s funny how your latte tastes different than the guy down the street.\u2019 Like, \u2018His is much more smoky,\u2019 or \u2018Yours is more caramelly.\u2019 People are way smarter than they’re given credit for.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

Coming from the nonprofit sector, one of the things I didn’t want to do with ROAST was start a new kind of feel-good charity. I wanted to do something sustainable, a more equal relationship, something that could grow and actually change things.<\/p>\nAndreas Astrup, ROAST COFFEE<\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

One of Holy Bean\u2019s strategies to carve out a niche for specialty coffee among more conventional consumers has been to partner with wine and boutique shops, where Danes might look for a nice gift when attending a dinner or housewarming party. In a bundle of Holy Bean coffees I once received as a Christmas present, there were three blends named after Hans Christian Andersen fairytales: \u201cNattergalen\u201d (The Nightingale), \u201cTinsoldaten\u201d (The Steadfast Tin Soldier), and \u201cTommelise\u201d (Thumbelina). Gren and her collaborators thought it was a natural choice for the Danish market. \u201cEverybody knows HC Andersen,\u201d she says of the writer, who was born in Odense. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Although Holy Bean focuses on light-roasted coffees now, Gren says that during the early days, she struggled to build a coffee menu that she was excited about that also met consumers\u2019 expectations. \u201cIn the beginning, I hated that everybody wanted the same thing. They wanted full-body chocolatey and nutty, and to put milk in their espresso. And I wanted to sell very light-roasted coffee and present those unique floral and citrus flavors.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Eventually, Gren learned to find the balance. \u201cAt one point, we said, \u2018Okay, what if we do a medium roast? It is still quite a balanced cup of coffee.\u2019 As the years went by, I understood why it is so important to have coffee that everybody likes. [It\u2019s allowed us to] grow a healthy business slowly and steadily.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Offering more roast profiles can also bring a wider range of consumers to the specialty table. ROAST offers their full range of light, medium, and dark specialty roasts on pour over from origins like Burundi, Yemen, and Papua New Guinea. Their packaging bears a country abbreviation and a number; for example, KEN12<\/sup>, which looks like a colorful chemical symbol and designates ROAST\u2019s twelfth offering from Kenya. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Astrup says ROAST\u2019s bag design and naming conventions help customers identify if the bag of coffee they\u2019re purchasing comes from a lot or region they\u2019ve purchased before, showcasing just how far consumers have come in the last few decades. \u201cThere\u2019s more focus on good quality coffee than there used to be, and people know much more about coffee than they used to,\u201d he says.\u00a0
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From Local Relationships to Global Recognition<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Although Coffee Collective only has cafes in Copenhagen, their coffee can be found in 20 countries across Europe, Asia, and North America. \u201cIn our first years [of operation], we felt that we were more known internationally than we were locally,\u201d Thomsen says.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u201cIt was a consequence of [the fact] that I had won the World Brewing Championship and my business partner Casper [Engel Rasmussen] won the World Cup Tasting Championship the year after we started, while our third business partner Peter [N. Dupont] has big recognition [among people who source coffee]. So whenever we had people traveling abroad, they would come back and say, \u2018How the hell did your coffee make it to a shop in Seattle?\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Danish coffee brands have an increasing presence on the world stage. In addition to large international chains like Ole & Steen<\/a> and Joe & The Juice<\/a> (both founded in Copenhagen), specialty coffee roaster La Cabra (based in Aarhus, Denmark) opened its flagship New York store in 2021, and April Coffee Roasters<\/a> (founded in Copenhagen) expanded to Seoul in 2022.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Thomsen says that World of Coffee<\/a>, an international coffee trade show coming to Copenhagen in 2024, shows how much the specialty coffee industry has grown in the capital city. He attributes that growth to the collaborative spirit and mutual trust that characterizes much of Danish business culture. \u201cI think there are very few cities worldwide that have as much good coffee as Copenhagen does right now. […]\u00a0 When [our industry colleagues] do something awesome, we feel like, \u2018Oh man, that was cool, but ah, we can do something even better.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

A nearby roastery had a fire some years ago. And I said, \u2018Of course you can come and roast in our roastery,\u2019 because I hope they will do the same one day if I [have a crisis]. I totally understand that some things [like roasting profiles] are a secret in this business. But overall, I would say that we are quite close.<\/p>\nSine Klejs Gren, holy bean coffee roasters<\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI think all the new coffee shops and roasters that opened up are not competitors in many ways. It’s more colleagues, where we all know each other and go to each other’s shops and try each other’s coffee and talk about it,\u201d says Astrup. \u201cI believe we opened up the market for each other.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Camaraderie and mutual respect seem to be the fuel that propels the Danish coffee scene forward, and people readily help one another when they can. Gren, who is currently pregnant with her third child, says another coffee colleague agreed to help her move and lift heavy things around the roastery when she was pregnant with her second\u2014and this support goes both ways. \u201cA nearby roastery had a fire some years ago,\u201d Gren says. \u201cAnd I said, \u2018Of course you can come and roast in our roastery,\u2019 because I hope they will do the same one day if I [have a crisis]. I totally understand that some things [like roasting profiles] are a secret in this business. But overall, I would say that we are quite close.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt’s like a friendly competition to improve us all,\u201d says Thomsen. \u201cAnd I think we all grow together.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Photos by Chlo\u00e9 Skye Weiser<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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