{"id":14896,"date":"2017-09-05T17:32:11","date_gmt":"2017-09-05T22:32:11","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/freshcup.com\/?p=14896"},"modified":"2022-08-17T23:04:32","modified_gmt":"2022-08-18T04:04:32","slug":"coffee-in-bucharest","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/freshcup.com\/coffee-in-bucharest\/","title":{"rendered":"Cafe Crawl: Coffee in Bucharest"},"content":{"rendered":"

[T]he elegant diagonal boulevards and m\u00e9lange of lush city parks, cobbled streets, and a replica of the Arc de Triomphe once earned Bucharest, Romania, the nickname \u201cLittle Paris of the East.\u201d A flourishing capital of culture, Bucharest was an artist\u2019s hub, where poets, painters, and philosophers would meet for conversation at the luxurious Casa Cap\u0219a<\/a> hotel.<\/p>\n

But this blossoming society waned in the wake of World War II and Nicolae Ceau\u0219escu\u2019s ensuing Communist dictatorship. Bucharest faded into the gray space of the Soviet bloc.<\/p>\n

Ceau\u0219escu\u2019s dictatorship finally fell in 1989, and the Romanian Revolution raged cross-country. A wave of art and style surged through Bucharest, infusing color into a city long muted by the Communist reign.<\/p>\n

\"Bucharest\"
Origo Coffee helped put Bucharest on the specialty coffee map and is known for its iconic white coffee cup and pour-over light fixtures. (Photo: courtesy of Origo coffee.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Twenty-eight years later, Bucharest today is an eclectic mix of neoclassical domed museums, art deco facades, and ragged apartments leftover from the Communist era. Artists and students fill the new caf\u00e9s and flea markets, and flock to the increasingly popular specialty coffee shops.<\/p>\n

Origo Coffee<\/h5>\n

On busy Strada Lipscani in Bucharest\u2019s old town, clusters of customers stand outside Origo Coffee<\/a>, chatting and sipping espresso in the summer sun. Even in winter, a crowd can be found outside of Bucharest\u2019s most popular specialty coffee shop.<\/p>\n

Mihai Panfil opened Origo in 2013 with a mission to educate Bucharest about specialty coffee and to put Romania on the coffee map. The name Origo is a nod to new beginnings and identity. \u201cI wanted something that means the start of the coffee industry here,\u201d Panfil says. \u201cWe are a Latin people, so I took from Latin the word origo\u2014\u2018the origin.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Bucharest\"
(Photo: courtesy of Origo Coffee.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The interior of the shop is simple, designed to make coffee the focus. White coffee cups hang from antique wooden ceiling beams over the bar area, which showcases the shop\u2019s Victoria Arduino Gravitech espresso machine.<\/p>\n

\u201cBecause specialty coffee was brand new here, the idea of the place was for the entire coffee process to be visible to clients, to see everything, to be transparent,\u201d Panfil says.<\/p>\n

Originally, Origo roasted its beans in-house behind a glass wall, making the process visible to customers. The roastery has since relocated due to growing customer volume and the accompanying need for more space.<\/p>\n

\"Bucharest\"
(Photo: courtesy of Origo Coffee.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Behind the counter, chalkboard walls advertise a simple menu and information about each drink. One chalk panel informs customers that sugar is available upon request, but asks that they try the coffee without it first. \u201cOur goal working here,\u201d says lead barista Lavinia Toma, \u201cis to show people what specialty coffee is, and that it might be a little different than what they are used to.\u201d<\/p>\n

Each Origo customer is greeted, then served tableside, guided through the menu by knowledgeable staff members. Anca Arhip, also a lead barista, elaborates: \u201cI think it\u2019s very important to have good coffee, but it\u2019s nothing if you make a good coffee and don\u2019t know how to present it to someone. So the coffee is important, but hospitality also means a lot.\u201d<\/p>\n

This focus on hospitality and education is especially pertinent in Bucharest, stemming from times when Ceau\u0219escu\u2019s economic policy made importing coffee nearly impossible. Romanians instead drank nechezol<\/em>, the nickname for a coffee substitute composed of only 15 percent coffee and 85 percent grains.<\/p>\n

\"Bucharest\"
(Photo: courtesy of Origo Coffee.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Coffee culture began its resurgence in 1990, when Romanians began to travel and seek work in Italy.<\/p>\n

\u201cBefore 1989, there was no coffee culture,\u201d Panfil says. \u201cFrom what I know, until 1990 there were only four or five professional espresso machines in the country. People didn\u2019t know anything about coffee, they had no education on how coffee should be or taste.\u201d<\/p>\n

Panfil\u2019s hard work is paying off. He says their roastery is now receiving orders from outside Romania, from places including Hungary and the Czech Republic, and their coffee is in such high demand in Bucharest that they will be opening a second location next year.<\/p>\n

Toma and her colleagues have competed in the World Brewers Cup<\/a>, and Arhip placed at the 2016 World Barista Championship<\/a>. \u201cAll the coffee exhibitions and competitions, we are there,\u201d Panfil says. \u201cIt\u2019s a lot of effort, but it\u2019s important to stay connected.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Bucharest\"
Coftale owner Antonio Iftimescu gives customers a front-row view to drink preparation. (Photo: Calin Dobrin\/Cristal Studio.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
Coftale<\/h5>\n

Nestled in a stately house outside Bucharest\u2019s city center is Coftale<\/a>. Owner Antonio Iftimescu opened the shop in December 2012 with his sister, Rocsana Dobre. Their goal was to create a coffee experience reflective of Bucharest\u2019s culture.<\/p>\n

\u201cI think people in other countries sometimes think of Romania as a Communist country, but that was back then. In my vision, Bucharest is a mixture of old and new,\u201d Iftimescu says.<\/p>\n

Coftale\u2019s interior is cozy and spacious, with high ceilings, ornate crown molding, and a sleek, modern bar. The space is light and airy, hearkening back to Bucharest\u2019s \u201cLittle Paris\u201d days.<\/p>\n

\"Bucharest\"
Coftale’s patio. (Photo: Calin Dobrin\/Cristal Studio.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Iftimescu\u2019s interest in specialty coffee began years ago in Berlin, Germany, when a barista there made a heart in his cappuccino. \u201cThat made me curious,\u201d he says. \u201cWhat is that heart in the middle? And why doesn\u2019t it need sugar? I wasn\u2019t a coffee drinker back then, so I used to put a lot of sugar in my coffee. It was like \u2018Whoa, no sugar for this coffee.\u2019 It was perfect.\u201d<\/p>\n

When Iftimescu returned to Romania, he resolved to learn more about specialty coffee. He found a beginner\u2019s course through the Specialty Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE)<\/a> and fell in love. \u201cThe idea for a specialty coffee shop just popped. It was like, \u2018Let\u2019s try this.\u2019\u201d But, like Panfil, he knew the process would involve education. \u201cFor people in Bucharest who are new to specialty coffee, it could seem like the barista disappears behind a counter and comes out with a coffee. We wanted the process to be transparent.\u201d Iftimescu made his Kees van der Westen<\/a> Spirit<\/a> easily visible to customers, so they feel like they\u2019re pulling up a chair at a kitchen table.<\/p>\n

\u201cThis is a place where people can connect with the barista and with each other,\u201d he says. \u201cThat\u2019s why it\u2019s called Coftale. We\u2019ve made a tale, a story about coffee in Bucharest.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Bucharest\"
(Photo: Calin Dobrin\/Cristal Studio.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Iftimescu promotes local business whenever possible. He sources beans primarily from Origo and Bucharest-based roasters Papa Jacques<\/a> and Guido, and from Yume Coffee Roasters<\/a>, a roastery in Cluj-Napoca in northwestern Romania. His future plans include roasting his own beans and continuing to attend coffee events such as the Berlin Coffee Festival<\/a> and next year\u2019s World of Coffee<\/a> event. He wants to further his own education and assert a Romanian presence at these events.<\/p>\n

Iftimescu\u2019s passion for specialty coffee and education is paying off. More and more Romanians are foregoing home brews and stopping by Coftale for their morning cup. \u201cWhen we talk about coffee, we put our heart into it,\u201d Iftimescu explains, \u201cand that resonates with people.\u201d<\/p>\n

T-Zero<\/h5>\n

Besides education, networking has played an important role in expanding Bucharest\u2019s specialty coffee scene. Take, for example, Ciprian Cosma, who opened T-Zero Coffee Shop<\/a> after a friend and coffee shop owner introduced him to specialty coffee.<\/p>\n

\"Bucharest\"
(Photo: Romulus Boicu.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cI wanted to learn about it,\u201d Cosma says, \u201cand he told me to go to Origo.\u201d<\/p>\n

Now, over a year after T-Zero\u2019s opening, Cosma maintains connections not only with Origo, who supplies coffee to the caf\u00e9, but with other shop owners throughout Bucharest. \u201cWe have started a community,\u201d he says. \u201cWe send clients to one another. We are trying to grow.\u201d<\/p>\n

Cosma recently opened a second T-Zero shop. Together with artist and friend Romulus Boicu, Cosma designed and constructed the interior of his shop\u2014from the teal walls to the rustic wood plank\u2013lined walls and counter. \u201cWe did absolutely everything,\u201d he says. The result is an eclectic interplay between the earthy touches and Boicu\u2019s contemporary scrap metal sculptures.<\/p>\n

Owning two shops has allowed Cosma to experiment and learn. His original shop is home to a Nuova Simonelli Aurelia II<\/a> and an Anfim Super Caiman<\/a>o grinder, whereas he chose a Victoria Arduino VA358 White Eagle<\/a> and Nuova Simonelli Mythos One<\/a> at his newest shop. \u201cWorking with the machines, working with the coffee\u2014that\u2019s the best school,\u201d Cosma says.<\/p>\n

\"Bucharest\"
T-Zero owner Ciprian Cosma (left) is a thriving force in the Bucharest coffee community .(Photo: Romulus Boicu.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
Beyond Bucharest<\/h5>\n

Specialty coffee is also growing outside Romania\u2019s capital. The town of Cluj-Napoca, located 280 miles northwest of Bucharest, is home to many specialty coffee shops, and in smaller cities, shops are just beginning to open.<\/p>\n

In Ia\u0219i, Romania, a specialty coffee and barista school opened this February. Scoala Moldoveneasca de Cafea<\/a>, which translates to \u201cMoldavian Coffee School,\u201d is the first independent coffee school in the Moldavian region. The main trainer is Laurentiu Stefan, a two-time national barista champion with additional international accolades. Stefan will work alongside a team of two other trainers to educate coffee drinkers and baristas alike.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe goal of the school is to teach people about quality coffee and how to prepare and enjoy it,\u201d says Carmen Manea, the school\u2019s public relations manager. The school will train baristas not only for their work in specialty coffee shops throughout Romania, but also for championships. Manea hopes that increasing access to education in areas outside Bucharest will lead to greater availability of specialty coffee throughout the country.<\/p>\n

Coffee shop owners and baristas across Romania know and support one another. \u201cIt\u2019s not a competition with us,\u201d Origo\u2019s Panfil says, \u201cbecause if there are more options, the winner is really the client.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Bucharest\"
(Photo: courtesy of Origo Coffee.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Coftale\u2019s Iftimescu agrees that the more options, the better: \u201cCoffee is personal. If you go to one coffee shop here, you might try coffee from Guatemala. You can try another shop later, try something different. That\u2019s a good thing. You start to think about what you like and the origins of what you\u2019re drinking. It creates a little community.\u201d<\/p>\n

This community of specialty coffee shop owners, baristas, and consumers pushes everyone to continue improving their methods and increases the general knowledge of and interest in drinking specialty coffee in Bucharest.<\/p>\n

Shop owners and roasters are hopeful that putting Romania on the specialty coffee map will also help paint a more positive image of Romanian culture and lifestyle in general.<\/p>\n

Summarizing Romania\u2019s rebirth and rising specialty coffee scene, Panfil says, \u201cWe started very late, but are recovering very fast.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u2014Shannon Kelly is a freelance writer and editor based in Galway, Ireland.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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